Indeed, it will be well to at once
remove all of the sod and surface soil, say to a depth of 6 inches,
(throwing this on the same side with the stakes, and back of them.) The
whole force can be profitably employed in this work, until all of the
ditches to be dug are scored to this depth over the entire tract to be
drained, except in swamps which are still too wet for this work.
*Water Courses.*--The brooks which carry the water from the springs should
be "jumped" in marking out the lines, as it is desirable that their water
be kept in separate channels, so far as possible, until the tiles are
ready to receive it, as, if allowed to run in the open ditches, it would
undermine the banks and keep the bottom too soft for sound work.
With this object, commence at the southern boundary of our example tract,
10 or 15 feet east of the point of outlet, and drive a straight,
temporary, shallow ditch to a point a little west of the intersection of
the main line _D_ with its first lateral; then carry it in a northwesterly
direction, crossing _C_ midway between the silt-basin and stake _C 1_, and
thence into the present line of the brook, turning all of the water into
the ditch. A branch of this ditch may be run up between the lines _F_ and
_G_ to receive the water from the spring which lies in that direction.
This arrangement will keep the water out of the way until the drains are
ready to take it.
*The Outlet.*--The water being all discharged through the new temporary
ditch, the old brook, beyond the boundary, should be cleared out to the
final level (3.
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